The capping of retinol in Europe by regulation (EU) 2024/996 reshuffles the cards of anti-aging routines. This regulatory change, still little covered in mainstream beauty guides, requires a rethink of the formulation of daily skincare and the active ingredients to rely on for a lasting glow of the face.
Capped retinol in Europe: adapt your anti-aging routine now
The regulation (EU) 2024/996 adopted in April 2024 caps the concentrations of retinol, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate in leave-on cosmetic products. Facial care and body lotions that exceed these thresholds can no longer be marketed from the end of 2025, with a complete withdrawal from shelves expected by May 2027 at the latest.
For users of retinol serums or creams, the consequence is direct: high-concentration anti-aging formulas are gradually disappearing from European shelves. We recommend anticipating this transition rather than stockpiling products destined for regulatory obsolescence.
The most documented substitute actives are biomimetic peptides, niacinamide, and bakuchiol. The latter, of plant origin, partially mimics the effect of retinol on cell renewal without the photosensitizing constraints. It fits into a routine both morning and evening, simplifying the protocol. By browsing beauty tips on Beauté en Folie, you can find concrete ideas for structuring this type of transition to compliant actives.
Daily facial care: revisiting double cleansing
Double cleansing remains a pillar, but its standardized version (oil + foam) deserves to be refined according to the actual skin profile, not according to the marketing category printed on the bottle.
First phase: dissolve without stripping
A cleansing balm based on non-comedogenic esters advantageously replaces mineral oils for the lipophilic phase. The goal is to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and oxidized sebum without altering the skin barrier. A minimum massage time of 60 seconds significantly improves effectiveness compared to a hasty application.
Second phase: adjust the pH
The aqueous cleanser should have a pH between 4.5 and 5.5 to respect the skin’s acid mantle. A product that is too alkaline (classic soap, some foaming gels) causes a compensatory overproduction of sebum in the hours that follow. We observe that this point, rarely checked by consumers, conditions the effectiveness of all subsequent applied products.
Hydration and eye radiance: target high-fragility areas
The eye contour concentrates the first signs of fatigue and aging because the skin there is significantly thinner than on the rest of the face. Applying standard moisturizer to this area is a common mistake.
An eye contour treatment formulated with peptides and caffeine works on two fronts: stimulating microcirculation to reduce vascular dark circles, and strengthening periorbital collagen to limit fine lines. Application should be done with light tapping using the ring finger, never by stretching.
For the rest of the face, layering a hydrating serum followed by an occlusive cream works better than a single “all-in-one” cream. The serum (watery texture, small molecules) penetrates the epidermis, while the cream forms a protective film that limits transepidermal water loss.
- Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid serum for deep hydration, applied on slightly damp skin.
- Occlusive cream containing squalane or ceramides to lock in moisture and strengthen the barrier function.
- Thermal mist during the day to reactivate hydration without disturbing makeup.
Long-lasting makeup: preparation and setting without overload
Makeup that lasts all day relies less on the foundation itself than on the preparation of the skin beforehand. A mattifying primer on the T-zone and a illuminating primer on the cheekbones create a differentiated canvas that extends wear and reduces the need for touch-ups.
The choice of foundation should correspond to the actual undertone of the skin (warm, cool, or neutral), not to the apparent color in-store under artificial lighting. A test on the jawline, observed in natural light, avoids shade errors that dull the look instead of enhancing it.
Set without weighing down the look
Translucent loose powder, applied by pressing (not sweeping), sets shiny areas. For dry skin, a glycerin-based setting spray advantageously replaces powder, which would accentuate fine lines. We recommend not to combine both: powder or spray, never both on the same area.
- Apply concealer after foundation to use less product and maintain a natural finish.
- Set lashes with a heated eyelash curler for a few seconds before applying mascara, for a curl that lasts without clumping.
- Blend eyeshadow with a clean brush at the end of application to avoid visible demarcations.
Fragrance and hair: often neglected gestures
Fragrance should be applied to pulse points (wrists, hollow of the neck, behind the ears), but never after rubbing the wrists together. This gesture breaks the top notes and alters the olfactory pyramid of the product. Spraying from a distance and letting it dry in the air preserves the complexity of the fragrance.
For hair, the most common mistake is applying a heat protectant on already dry hair. The product should be sprayed on damp hair, section by section, before any hot drying. This creates a uniform protective sheath rather than an irregular film that sticks without protecting.
Enhancing your beauty daily relies more on the precision of gestures and the quality of the chosen actives than on the number of products piled up on the bathroom shelf. With European regulations tightening the allowed formulations, now is the time to reevaluate each step of your routine to keep only what truly works for your skin.
